Saturday, February 7, 2009

Waiheke Wonders (or: Visions of Valhalla)

When Cook first ventured onto the islands of the South Seas, he marvelled at the 'paradise' he encountered there: white beaches nestled between palms and turquoise lagoons, profusions of fruit and flowers, waterfalls and green forests populated by bright birds. Waiheke Island, which shelters us from the vagaries of the Pacific and upon whose verdant slopes we gaze from Maraetai, must be one such place. The word Waiheke (pronounced Why-hee-kee) means "cascading waters" in Maori, which should give you a clue. Just a stone's throw across the Hauraki Gulf, we've been itching to visit this delightful little island - and its many wine farms and white beaches - since we settled in this part of Auckland. And we finally made it happen a few weeks ago, shortly after New Year's. We had actually planned to visit the extinct volcano(and now protected reserve) Rangitoto Island, whose delightful cone-shaped slopes also make a fabulous sillhouette to complement your sundowner spritzer; but a last-minute confusion with the ferry timetables found us perching on the upper deck of the Waiheke ferry, sipping fabulous takeaway coffee and clutching our sunhats (or motion-sickness pills, in some cases).

Our plans having changed somewhat at the last minute, we found ourselves on the car ferry (sans car) destined for the southern part of the island, about five kms from the small town centre and off the main bus route and away from the rental car agencies, which are all located at the other (northern) wharf. And so, armed with little more than our stalwart three-wheel pram (A New Zealand invention, incidentally), water, raisins, apples, and lots of sunblock, we set off on a cross-island trek. Maya performed remarkably well on the five km hike, buoyed up by the great game we thought out of imagining we were the very first people to discover the island, and were exploring it, charged with the task of thinking up new names for all the new flora and fauna we encountered on our voyage of discovery. We resisted popping in at every wine farm along the way, pausing only for a picnic ('morning tea') in the shade of a spreading tree on the local school field, before we shrieked in glee at discovering a picture-perfect white beach with cool water (and even a few waves!) as we crested the hill and descended to the northern side of the island, which faces the open Pacific.

Maya and I nursed our hot feet in the sea, while Max (who had fallen asleep in his pram) and Willem lazed beneath the trees further up the beach. Willem then did his Virgo Man thing and phoned a rental car company, who sent out a car for us so that we could venture somewhat further around the island for the remainder of the day. Waiheke town centre proved to be everything a little tourist-island town could be, with delightfully quirky lunch spots, art and curio shops to satisfy all tastes, and - of course - decadent ice-cream and sublime coffee at regular 50m intervals along the main street. Maya decided in the course of the day that the Waiheke beaches beat even Maraetai's, being composed of finer sand and more interesting waves, although she conceded that living on such a small island may require more ferry rides than she has motion-sickness pills for. Willem and I resolved to return soon, armed with our car and loads of cash to spend at the vineyards... After lunch we cruised the island east to west, before leaving the rental car at the wharf and embarking reluctantly on the final ferry back to Half Moon Bay, where our trusty car was waiting to take us home to bed and dreams of paradise.

Views from the restaurant where we had lunch.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

A feet-finding mission

The last month has been busy. We've survived the school holidays, finally received our second overflow consignment of books and furniture, actually been for some good swims and kayaking expeditions in the sea, welcomed old friend and new FOB (Fresh Off the Boat) Elizabeth to New Zealand, made friends with more of our neighbours, done a few touristy things, and got Maya settled into the new school year. Oh yes, and I started my new job! So perhaps I might be excused for the paucity of posts this last month.

It's been good to spend time immersing ourselves in the ordinary joys of a family summertime before school and work accelerate our pace of life for the year. It has given us a chance to experiment with routines and forge the kind of understandings and habits among ourselves and our immediate environment (both social and physical) needed to find a life-rhythm. Of course, now that school and my work has started, we'll need to adjust again, but I have a sense that our foundation is solidifying. Last weekend we had a very active couple of days, with the neighbours on the three houses to our left inviting Willem for a boys' night out, followed by a weekend of tennis and squash games at the local sports centre (which we had not known about) and more coffee and drinks dates. I've now seen the inside of their houses, picked peaches off their trees, watched our children gleefully spray each other with water and bubbles and inspect each others' toys, and had fun comparing notes on New Zealand. I feel delighted to finally have made some actual live Kiwi friends!

We were told that it would take about two years before we felt completely at home in a new country. I can well believe this, as there is so much to the lifestyle and culture that is different, even if the language is the same. Actually, speaking the same language may lead to dangerous assumptions of similarity - for instance, in many English-speaking countries, the colloquial expression "to root" refers to searching for something - rooting through your underwear drawer for the other blue sock, for example. However, in New Zealand, 'rooting' does NOT mean searching. No, no. It refers to something very different. It means, in short, to have sex. So when you casually mention in the office tearoom that you were rooting around in the freezer last night, your colleagues might wonder at both your sexual predilections and your uncomfortable habit of oversharing... Yet, for all this, we are feeling remarkably content with our move. Despite being poorer than we've been since our student days, we have everything we need; we eat like kings, drink like fish, play like puppies and work like dogs - and are a very happy family doing so. I read today about a Life Satisfaction Index used by research bodies to make international comparisons between countries. New Zealand scores in first position. I'm not altogether surprised. There is a surprising lack of angst in this little nation, despite their quirky paranoia about all things nuclear (don't even think of bringing your radioactive ship into these waters) and fires (fire alarms in every house, and no open fires in public places - they provide free gas for the barbeques instead) and crime (every crime makes the papers, and the serious ones are headline news for days and the topic of radio debates for weeks) and, naturally, Australians (no explanation needed). There is an extremely high rate of physical recreational activity (which incidentally shows a strong correlation with reduced depression and increased coping), and of course, there is the beautiful sea and the majestic hills and parks and the fragrant air and the lack of pollution and the relatively well-functioning sociopolitical structure. We love that people are generally relaxed, laid-back, and friendly; we like their flexibility and openness and the slower pace of life (even the speed limits are lower); we love living where we do (despite the half-hour drive to the nearest grocery store and elevated rental prices); we appreciate that when I wanted a part-time post, they said, "No worries! What hours would suit you?"; I love the quality of the coffee, salads and seafood and that you can take wine or coffee into a cinema; we love that children are welcome most places and that even fairly swanky restaurants have children's menus; we love the vastly-reduced necessity for constant vigilance - that we can drive with windows open and that Maya can walk to school alone. There are also things we don't like: the deplorable lack of low-fat options on sit-down and takeaway menus, the absence of alcohol-free beer and GI indicators on packaged food, the high cost of living and house prices, the expensive public transport, the inattention to aesthetics and unaffordability of labour-intensive products and services. We dread the jet lag associated with visiting almost anywhere in the world; and miss the exciting biodiversity of Africa, with its cultural richness - but we don't miss our home country's political and social tensions, and the slow degeneration of its natural resources. We're coming to terms with not getting around to polishing the silver and ironing the bedsheets, and following the advice of a seasoned expat colleague, our new housekeeping motto is "Clean enough to be healthy, dirty enough to be happy".

Life here is just simpler, and in some ways, much easier. A good metaphor for this is the typical Kiwi house. Most commonly, it is built of timber and gypsum board, often mounted on stilts, and has an almost transient feel of treading lightly on the earth, not only because it can probably be picked up and moved, but also because it does not scar the earth quite so much in its construction. It is quickly and fairly cheaply constructed, and easy and economical to adapt (putting in a window or sliding door requires nothing more forceful than a frame, a chainsaw, and a Saturday morning). The laborious process of concrete foundations, heavy bricks, back-breaking labour and the time and effort of tiling and plastering is sidestepped, as is the expense of adding to or changing the structure later. There are naturally disadvantages to houses built this way - the dangers of poorly-treated timber, lack of insulation and soundproofing, etc - but all in all, it is simpler, and easier.

Which is really how life should be, after all the trouble we've gone to evolving this far.